If you have never been to the Scottish Highlands, you've basically not been to Scotland. Mum and I safely made it to Edinburgh on our flight. She got the delightful experience of staying in a hostel room with 10 other girls! The joy of it! The next morning, we got up early to meet our Highlands tour with Real Scottish Journey. Neither of us had any idea what to expect, but we were greeted by our tour guide, Bill, who knew my name before I even introduced myself! We thought it was very impressive. It was an intimate tour of just 15 people, so there was plenty of opportunity the whole time to ask specific questions and bond with Bill and the other people on the tour. In my opinion, it was a much better way of doing things than taking a large coach where we never would have seen as much as we did this weekend. Bill took us to places that he'd been since he was a kid on vacations, which made the tour that much better because it meant we saw places that normal tours might not get to. Bill just got more and more impressive as the tour went on. He knows so much about history and the environment in the highlands, it's a wonder how he remembers it all! He used his "GPS finger," as Yvonne, a girl on the tour, coined the term, to point at different places on the map to show us exactly where we were, which my Mum appreciated as she really likes looking at maps. Bill was really engaging with his stories both in terms of history and mythology, and he didn't just sit on the bus, he did things with us and was really just like another member of the tour group. The group itself was a random mix of people from all over the world. We had people from Poland, Mexico, China, India, Canada, and the US. It was really an interesting mix, and everyone was really nice and fun to be around. What was even better, the weather was almost perfect the entire time. Really sunny and cool, the best weather we could have hoped for. I was really sad to have left the highlands. I had such a relaxing vacation that I did not want to come back to London at all!
Well those are the general comments about the tour itself, but let me get more into the specifics now; where we went and what we did. I should also say that I am a bit nervous with this post because I've never had any of my tour guides read my blog posts before. But Bill was really interested to read it when he saw me writing everything down in my notebook (this is also the first time I've been able to write facts down as they were told to me on the tour). So I better make sure all my facts are right!
The first day, we met in Edinburgh at 8am and traveled through to Fort William and Mallaig and took the ferry across to Skye where we would be spending two nights. Along the way, Bill gave us some history of Scotland. He gave us different bits as the tour progressed depending on our location, but I think I might just write up the full history all at once to make it clearer for the blog.
The wars for independence were fought in the 14th and 15th centuries, and they were sparked by the death of King Alexander III of Scotland. Originally, they were a battle between Edward I of England (Edward Longshanks) and the Highlanders, led by William Wallace. In 1297, William Wallace's forces defeated English troops in the Battle of Stirling Bridge, which the Wallace monument commemorates. It is placed on a hill opposite Stirling Castle, which the British forces used, and it was where Wallace gathered his troops before the battle. We passed it on the first day of the tour, and it is really incredible to see the monument and the tour, both on hills, right next to each other and imagine what was going through the minds of the forces on both sides at the time. The decisive battle in the first war for independence was the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314 in which the Scottish won. Wallace's goals of uniting the noble and common people of Scotland was, unfortunately, not achieved in the first war of independence. He wanted to unite the people of Scotland against the English and stop them fighting amongst each other, but he was betrayed when the nobles retreated during battle, leaving he and his forces to fight them off. Wallace was captured, hung, drawn, and quartered by the English. Wallace became a martyr and Scottish hero. He was the first to stand for freedom from tyranny, and the Declaration of Arbroath was, therefore, partly inspired by his work. It was a letter written to the Pope declaring that Scotland was independent and would fight against anyone who challeneged this. It was the first treaty of this kind, and it was signed by Robert the Bruce, king at the time, and Scottish noblemen and because of this is also a symbol of Wallace's orginial goal: united the nobles and commoners against a common enemy.
After Robert the Bruce's reign, the kingship of Scotland passed to the Stuart line. Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to James VI of Scotalnd, who would later be James I of Scotland as well. Elizabeth I of England was always concerned about Mary's claim to the English throne as she was Henry VIII's cousin. Eventually, turmoil forced Mary to flee to England for protection, but instead, Elizabeth put her under house arrest for years before ordering her execution. When Elizabeth died childless, Mary's son, James, took the throne and united the kingdoms of Scotland and England for the first time in 1603. This was a point of pride for many Scottish people, which is why it caused significant anger when the Stuart monarchy was removed from the throne to be replaced by William and Mary. The Highland Clans remained loyal to the Stuarts and King James, and they became known as the Jacobites. The first Jacobite rebellions occurred in 1689. William tried to force people to sign a loyalty oath on pain of death, building forts and roads to enforce this law and so the English could better crush Jacobite rebellions.
On the way to Skye, we stopped in a place called Glencoe, the site of a Jacobite massacre. The MacDonald clan at first refused to sign the loyalty oath, but eventually they decided to do so. The head of the MacDonald clan left to go to the designated location to sign the oath and arrived before the date the highlanders were meant to sign by, but they told him they didn't have the forms and that he had to go to somewhere far away, and this would be very difficult for him to get to even in the summer. The weather delayed him, and he missed the day to sign it by just a few. Still, the English allowed him to sign because they understood that the weather kept him. When William saw that the MacDonald clan had given in, he thought it was funny, but then saw that the date was a few days past his deadline and decided to use this as an excuse to have the family killed. He sent the Campbell family, loyal to the English, to do this. By the time the Campbells got to Glencoe, where the MacDonalds lives, they were cold and hungry, and the MacDonalds took them in for a few weeks, giving them food and shelter and bonding with them despite the fact that the two clans were old rivals. Hospitality is an important part of Highland culture. After 14 days, the weather cleared and the Campbells left and went to meet with the English forces. They were ordered to carry out the king's orders no matter what, so, despite the friendship that had just been created, they went back to the head of the clan's home and killed him first and massacred the rest of the MacDonald clan as well. The massacre of Glencoe occurred in 1692. Today, it is still on record that anyone but members of the Campbell family should receive hospitality.
Because I saw the movie with Gage right before coming to London, I asked Bill about Rob Roy MacGregor as well. He was a Jacobite and a cattle drover. He was thought to be the finest swordsman in Scotland. We drove through the town where he is buried, Balquhidder.
In 1745, Charles Stuart, also known as Bonnie Prince Charlie, went to Scotland and organized the Highlanders to march on Edinburgh, overtaking the city, and later to London, getting within 4 days march of the city before returning to Scotland. He wanted to restore his line to the monarchy. One very brutal battle for the Jacobites in the wars with Bonnie Prince Charlie was the Battle of Culloden in 1746 with the English forces led by the Duke of Cumberland. Huge numbers of Jacobites were killed in this battle, and they were decisively defeated. The English were very well equipped with modern weaponry and fighting techniques. Even after the fight had ended, Cumberland ordered all the Jacobites dying on the field or caught to be killed, and he is still known as the Butcher for this action. The English plundered the highlands after this, leading to the clearances, when the English basically removed all that was distinctly Scottish, including tartans, the Gaelic language, and bagpipes. They also cleared the land of all the farmers, giving the land to those sympathetic to the English and evicting the tenant farmers in favor of sheep grazing land. This eventually meant that the trees never regenerated because the ship ate them. Skye was once a large forest. Scottish culture was not completely killed though, especially as many people immigrated to other lands and kept the culture alive there.
In the 19th century, Scotland became an exotic place for people to come and visit, and it was very romanticized. King George IV's visit to Scotland in 1822, which I mentioned in the Edinburgh post, revived Scottish culture as he came wearing a kilt. He made it legal to wear kilts, speak Gaelic, and play the bagpipes once more. The 1800s were a time of great innovation and creativity among the Scottish people. For example, the Fourth Bridge, a 9 mile rail bridge opened in 1890 was a huge engineering feet that took over 5 years to build. The bridge was the longest single cantilever bridge span in the world until 1917 and has the second longest single span. It was also the first bridge in Britain to use steel alone.
In the 1950s, there was a revival of Scottish culture when Ian Hamilton, a nationalist who wanted to see the Scottish people take pride in their old culture again, stole the Stone of Destiny back from England on Christmas Eve 1950. The Stone had been a symbol of Scotland, brought to Scotland by the first Scots. All the kings of the Scots were then crowned on the stone barefoot. It was called the speaking stone as well because it was said to speak and pick the kings. It was brought to Scone Abbey for safekeeping, but in the 13th century, Edward I wanted it to take away Scottish power and gain it for himself. He killed all the monks at the abbey and took the stone for himself, bringing it to Westminster Abbey where it has been used to crown all the English monarchs since. In England, Ian Hamilton was called a thief, but in Scotland he was hailed a hero. This move was enough to encourage the Scottish people to revive their culture. When the point had been made, Hamilton tipped off newspapers, wrapped the stone in the Scottish flag, and took it to Arbroath Abbey. It was taken back to London, and soon after, it was used to crown Elizabeth II. Also, Scotland voted for a free parliament. Their parliament had been incorporated into England's in 1707. Ian was a catalyst for change. It is thought though that perhaps Ian did not give back the stone; that he only gave back a fake. Yet another story is that the monks at the Scone Abbey didn't give Edward the correct Stone either. The story goes that they may have given him what amounted to their toilet seat because Longshanks had never actually seen the stone for himself! The Stone of Destiny story is an interesting blend of fact and fiction and mythology, but the stone is currently located at Edinburgh Castle, back in Scotland once more, and it is only removed for the coronations of the monarchs. The 1950s again saw a revival of Scottish innovation and invention.
So that's my history summary. I hope I did it justice Bill. Now I am going to get into what we did specifically on each day, and what we stopped at. I've already mentioned a few places, but I'll quickly lay it out and give my impressions.
On the first day, we had a lot of driving to do, but we got to stop and see some cool things along the way. We passed the impressive Wallace Monument and Stirling Castle, as I said. The first stop was to see Hamish the Highland Cow, his wife, Heather, and his son, as yet unnamed (but we think Henry would be good). I love Highland Cows (Coos). They are adorable and have bangs, what more could you want in a cow. We later stopped for pictures at Glencoe, where the massacre occurred. Glencoe was beautiful. Mountains are called "ben" in Gaelic, which Mum and I thought was funny. Glencoe has the mountains known as the three sisters. There are going to just be a lot of places I describe as beautiful, because there are no other words. The whole tour was full of beautiful sights to see. We drove through Fort William and we saw Scotland's highest peak, Ben Nevis at 446 feet. We also got to see the train line used in Harry Potter! It's the Glenfinnan viaduct train. We walked up a hill in Glenfinnan and got really nice views of the rows of mountains in the distance as well as the railroad on the opposite side. Glenfinnan is also where the monument to Bonnie Prince Charlie is located. When we got to Mallaig, we all got on the ferry to Skye. We drove to Portree, Skye, the capital, which means Port of the King, and is named so because King James V landed t
here. On the way to Portree, we passed the Cuillin Mountains, Red and Black. We hostel we stayed at was very nice, and Mum and I shared a room with Yvonne. The restaurant we ate at on the first night was only ok, but we were exhausted, so we went back to the hostel early so I could finish some homework, and we went to bed early.
The following day, we met Bill at 9am to go on an excursion around Skye for the day. Our first stop was the base of the Cuillin Mountains where we all plunged our faces into the River Slig. This is said to give you eternal beauty. The myth behind the formation of the Cuillin Mountains is that the giant, Cuillin, heard about a warrior training school on Skye. He was an Irish giant who was always an outcast in society, so he thought he would try the warrior school there. The teacher at the school was a beautiful woman named Skiath (Sorry Bill, probably really butchering the name, but that's what it sounded like to me!). The two fell in love. One day, there was a viking invasion, and Cuillin challenged the best viking warrior to a fight to the death. Cuillin won but showed the viking mercy by not killing him. The viking leader was so angry that he plunged his sword into Cuillin's one eye, blinding him. Cuillin ran away never to be seen again, but Skiath followed him and has been trying to find him since. The River Slig is meant to be her tears as she waits for him on the top of the mountains, which is why we are supposed to get eternal beauty from the waters there. Our next stop was the ruins of a broch. These are towers where the nobles of the area would have lived with the others in the community surrounding them. Everyone would have used it for security when necessary. It had no windows and only one door. The ruins are two and a half thousand years old. It had two stone la
yers for insulation purposes. It was used as a fort as well as a symbol of status and wealthy for the people in it and for the community as a whole. Eventually, these brochs evolved in to what we think of today as forts and castles. Later on we saw Glendale, took a long, steep, and wonderful walk at Neist Point, the western most point of Skye where there were huge cliffs, and drove through Dunvegan. Another highlight of the day was Fairy Glenn. Bill told us the story of Alaster MacCrimmond, the best bagpiper in Scotland. He would go everyday to the glen to play and see if the fairies would tell him secrets to become even better. One day, they talked to him and brought him in to the fairy world, but they forced him to play and play until he could no longer. They had sucked his energy away, making him feel old. Eventually, he escaped, but when he got back, there were strange people living in his home. He realized it was 100 years into the future. Fairy Glen is supposed to be where one can travel between the fairy and the mortal worlds. It was a gorgeous glen where people left coins and things for the fairies. It really did look like fairies might live there. It had ro
lling hills and winding roads. It was one of my favorite places we stopped. We also found a small, hidden cave where people left mementos for the fairies as well. We went back to Portree for lunch and shopping at one point, when I got my Hamish the highland cow charm. We also ended up back in Portree for another night in the hostel there. We had a great meal of Chicken pie and mac and cheese at McNabs. I also introduced Mum to cider! I got to try toffee pudding, and it was delicious. Again, I had to go back to the hostel early to get some reading done. The second day was definitely the most walking of the four days, and it was really nice to be able to get to hike and walk a bit. It really helps you experience things more.
On the third day, we went to Eilean Donan castle. It was built in the 12th century as a fort against the vikings. It was owned by the Mackenzies and was transferred to the MacRaes. In 1719, it was destroyed by the English in a battle with the Jacobites. The Jacobites, with the Spanish helping, were storing their weapons and gun powder in the castle, and the castle was then blown up, destroying it completely. In 1916, the castle was rebuilt by John McRae, and the family still owns and uses it to this day. It was a bit rainy in the morning, so we escaped inside the castle, and it really cleared up later in the day. This was the only day that we even really had an issue with weather, and it didn't stop us from doing and seeing everything we were going to. We passed the 5 sisters mountains, meant to be the preservation of the beauty of chief Kintale's 5 daughters. The girls had been promised to an Irish man and his 5 brothers, but when the Irish man, who fell in love with the youngest sister, went back to Ireland to fetch his brothers, he never came back. The girls were getting old, and Kintale went to see a magical man, asking him to preserve their beauty until the men came back. He wasn't careful what he asked for, and the man turned them into mountains, preserving their beauty in that form forever. Our last stop was Loch Ness. The story of the Nessie goes back to the Christian missionary, Columba, in the 6th century. He said he blessed the Loch Ness monster when it came out and was about to kill him one day, saving himself. We took an hour long boat ride on the loch. It had really nice views, and the boat gave a little bit of detail about the loch itself. It is over 800 feet deep, more than 20 miles long, and there is more water in it than all the lakes in Wales and England combined! I was really impressed, but also a little intimidated to be on top of it. The sonar was really cool. You
could see what it looked like underneath the boat, and it was like mountains. We then drove to Inverness where we were going to spend the night. The hostel there was nice, we got our own room. Before dinner, we took a short walk along the river Ness. Dinner was actually incredible though. I got Yorkshire pudding and roast beef and another toffee pudding for desert. The whole tour group and Bill ate together, and it was really a great time. After, some of us went to Hootenanny at Bill's suggestion. We listened to music for a little while before heading back to the hostel to get some sleep.
The last day of the tour, we stopped at the Clava Cairns, which is a three to four thousand year old burial ground with stone circles. The burial tombs were really cool, they looked like domes of piled stones. We then went to a really cool placed called the Riven Barracks, an old fort built by the English to better control the Jacobites. They were really neat to look at and go into to see how the soldiers lived in there. We stopped at Edragour, the smallest whiskey distillery in Scotland. It is said that the Irish invented whiskey, but the Scottish perfected it. We got a sample of whiskey, and it really burns. Safe to say I wont be drinking that again! Oh well. It was still a really cool tour just to see how whiskey is made. It was nice that the distillery was still very local and small, not like most distilleries that are more like factories. We stopped for lunch in Pitlochery. It was really quaint there. It reminded me of all those small Maine towns. It had great shopping, and it's where the heathergem jewelry is made. Heathergem is distinct to Scotland. It is made from the dyed and compressed stems of heather plants, and the result is really unique and beautiful jewelry. Last but not least we stopped at the Hermitage for a walk through the woods in "Big Tree Country." It was a lovely walk with a waterfall. It was really peaceful walking there and a nice, relaxing end to the trip. On the way back, we drove past the Fourth Bridge, which I described earlier, and we ended up back in Edinburgh
with more than enough time for Mum and I to get to the airport and get back to London. It was really sad to have the tour come to and end because it really was the best trip and the best vacation I could have taken. Like I said, the tour and Bill were both amazing, and I would do it again in a heartbeat. The best last trip I could have done this semester. Mum and I both loved it. No regrets, no complaints.